Please notice that the plants at the top half are more of a lime green. This is due to lower light growing conditions. Both are healthy. I use a layer of Black Cow composted manure under a 2 inch layer of sand as the substrate. Some tanks without fish do not have the sand layer capping, it is not mandatory, just keep the tint of the water to a more clear water color. Most important thing to remember is they do not like surface agitation or powerheads. Their roots collect sediment floating in the calm almost stagnant water, and have a charge that attracts nutrients, which makes them a fairly good addition to your filtration. The plants are tough and withstand a wide range of conditions, just be sure the water is calm, warm and the substrate provides some nutrients. They also grow really fast when the water is steadily above 78 degrees. Do not grow them in full outdoor sun, it is too strong for them. As your plants grow compare them with the photo to gauge if you’re providing them optimal light. Less light yields smaller, flattened brighter green plants. Low nutrient levels will cause longer root lengths as the plant seeks food. Hope this helps you have great success! Enjoy’em.
Recently I’ve had a few customers ask to see a few photos of Blonde Chili Endlers. These type of chilis resemble regular grey (blau) base colored chilis in size and care. The blonde phenotype seems to accent the metallic iridescence. Here a few very quick photos and video clips of them.
Blonde Chili Endler Snapshots
Here is a photo of the gray bodied Ranbow Snakeskin Endler as a comparison…
The P Class Lime Endler is a wild Endler derived from the N Class Black Bar Endler, then line bred for the continuous Electric Lime Green bar which runs horizontally. These are more brilliant electric colored than the blue Cardinal or Neon Tetras. They are similar in size but much easier to maintain and breed. Always a favorite and available at LiveFins.
A Very nice clean True Breeding line of Italian Japan Blue Doublesword Guppies recently added to the collection!
Steel Nebula Guppies – A Beautiful Tri-Color Mosaic Snakeskin Hybrid Line originally developed by Pete Mang, AKA the seller Lotsoffish on the Aquabid Live Aquaria Auction website.
Your Fish have been raised in a greenhouse in 55 gallon breeder tanks and the water stays quite warm, 82 – 86 degrees this time of year with the early morning temperatures dipping to 76 degrees. They are accustomed to natural full day length exposure to sunlight and moonlight. The pH is a steady 7.6, the source is unfiltered Florida well water which naturally filters through a limerock aquifer, kH (calcium level) is quite high and no salt added. The TDS measures 390. I raise plants with them, so the tanks have Florida sandy soil as substrate and are heavily planted along with an assortment of invertebrates, scuds, snails, cherry shrimp, daphnia and cyclops are cultured within the same tanks. This lessens aggression between males and provides a constant variety of live food. I would not recommend placing these in a bare spotless tank and they will benefit by having lots of retreat area for the sub dominant males. Be sure to feed your existing tank mates at the same time as introducing them into your aquarium.
The Red Ramshorn and Malaysian trumpet snails really like the spirulina wafers that I purchase from www.kensfish.com . The malaysian trumpets are a bit more carnivorous than the red ramshorn snails. They will eat cichlid pellets. They both tend to feed more during darkness. The Red Ramshorns will eat trimmings from aquatic plants or wilted lettuce as a treat. They both will do better with a little extra calcium which is dissolved in the water with the addition of some crushed coral as part of their substrate. Crushed coral goes by the names oolite and aragonite 0.030” grain size and is found in local pet stores for use in salt water aquariums mainly. I roughly mix ¾ silica free playsand with ¼ crushed coral.
I haven’t ever seen a MTS attack a pond snail. I have many tanks with both of them. What I have observed is that pond snails seem to prefer plants and all of the tanks with both types do have plants. MTS are more carnivore than the pond snails, so if the primary source of food is Fish Flake they may out-compete the pond snails. Pond snails also eat more algae and in a super clean aquarium this would also allow them to be overtaken by the MTS population. Could this be what happened in your aquarium, or did you actually see the attack? Are you sure you don’t have assassin snails? Mystery snails will eat flake refuse as well so they provide more competition to the MTS than the pond snails. I do observe the pond snails doing very well in with the mystery snails. Sorry I don’t have a definite answer for you but they seem to coexist very well from what I’ve seen.
Sorry to hear they haven’t been as prolific as you’d like. You could be right, It may be your water conditions. Do you have any live plants in with them? What temperature are you maintaining? Have you tried cycling the water temperature? How much light is your tank receiving and have you tried varying the day length? What other fish are inhabiting the tank? I recommend you try to get you aquarium environment as similar as possible to the conditions these are born, bred and raised in as they are extremely prolific in the conditions / parameters around here. They are kept alone. All of my fish have been raised in Florida Aquifer fed well water which has a pH of 7.6 and conductivity of 290. They are born bred and raised in 55 gallon heavily planted aquariums all have substrate. I feed them a large variety of food. I feed them fish pearls larval diet, occasional freeze dried and frozen bloodworms, algae, live scuds, live and freeze dried daphnia, live ghost shrimp larvae, freeze dried Cyclops, mosquito larvae and fresh hatched brine shrimp. Most of these dry foods are available from www.kensfish.com. The live foods are cultured among the fish within the aquariums. I do not want to make this seem overcomplicated though, they are easy to care for. They are fed this large variety of feeds and are exposed to natural sunlight to bring out their best coloration and to maintain long term health.
They will thrive on just Tetramin or Ocean Nutrition flake food in a heavily planted aquarium with a ph above 7. The temperature in the greenhouse where they have been raised varies seasonally as they are in aquariums within the greenhouse. During the winter the water temperature will average 72 (64 in morning / 84 late afternoon) and during the summer 82 (72 in morning / 88 late afternoon). The variance is a natural occurrence these fish are well adapted to since they were originally collected from small ponds in hot climates.
They grow faster and breed more often in the warmer temperatures. They tend to drop fry the day before a full moon as well as the first day of the waxing moon. You may want to try using moonlight to try and trigger them to drop. Another trigger is to not change the water for 10-days prior to the optimal lunar cycle days and then perform a water change on either of those days. Hope this helps.
Depending on the package size there are 3 options that are most economical sense.
Padded Flat Rate USPS Priority Mail Envelope will hold 1 pair of adults or 6 fry.
Medium Flat Rate USPS Priority Mail will hold 6 pairs of young adults or 24 fry.
Large Flat Rate USPS Priority Mail 9 pairs of young adults or 36 fry.
As far as the Ender’s producing more females, I can only guess. Are you sure they are mature enough to be certain of the gender, are they gravid? Gender is genetically determined. I think that if there are excellent conditions in your aquarium, possibly pheromones are being released that cause you to get more females to build the population of a colony in order to dominate. I’ve noticed when only 2 fry are produced often they are 1 male and 1 female. The release of pheromones may have something to do with survival of a species as well as affect the fertility of male sperm. I’ve seen this with Livebearers as well as mouth brooding cichlids. I’ve read that a higher pH will yield more females. I’ve read that higher temps can reduce the survival rate of male sperm. There is a lot of anecdotal information out there. Just go with your observations. If you’d like to change the gender ratio then you’ll need to do something different with hardness, pH, temperature, lighting intensity as well as duration.
It really depends more on the your perspective which is usually based visually on size rather than age. Approximately any swordtails less than ¾ “ would be perceived as fry and any larger than that would be considered Juvies, once they are mature enough to begin or start dropping fry Young Adult Size and Larger Fish would be considered Breeder Show Stock.
Hi, Thanks for the inquiry! Welcome to online livefish and plant purchasing. I try to make this as similar to purchasing anything else you have purchased online with a conventional shopping cart. You can either choose my buy now button located in my listing and be directed to Paypal and use your Paypal account or a credit or debit card to check out. The other method is to use the Aquabid checkout system which sends an email to me letting me know you’ve purchased and then wait for a Paypal request for payment. You can also purchase the same items off of my website www.livefins.com . The choice is yours, whenever you are ready to purchase let me know and I can send a package to you on any Saturday, Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday. Some livestock can survive longer than others in transit while living in a box. Some livestock needs to be conditioned a day (small fish) or two (larger fish) before shipping, some can be sent the same day (snails, plants). The main thing we (live fish sellers) try to avoid is extra days sitting in the post office over Sundays as this adds risk to the survival and well-being of whatever you purchase. I welcome any questions you may have that will make this purchase enjoyable and easy!
Kordon Breather Bag Satchels
Scuds and Shrimp can be kept together, however the scuds can eventually out-compete the shrimp. Short term they can be kept together very well, the scuds tolerate more extreme ph fluctuation and temperature variance and are more prolific for this reason and will likely outperform the shrimp breeding, so they will crowd the shrimp out eventually. But if you are regularly harvesting the scuds only this may work very well for you. The nauplii (baby shrimp) are hard to distinguish from the very young scuds. If you decide to keep them together harvest scuds that are large enough to be certain they are scuds.
The F1’s RREA Snakeskins are prolific now. The F0 parents took almost 3 months until they had Fry. The F1’s are having fry since they were about 3 months old and do not eat their fry.
The original fish I bought from Mokkom and Topshowguppy on Aquabid and the RREA Tuxedo’s were by luck.
Currently, I maintain 3 different lines of them.
Line 1: RREA Snakeskin X RREA Solid Red IFGA Standard
Line 2: RREA Snakeskin X RREA Snakeskin (All Asian)
Line 3: RREA Snakeskin X RREA Red Head Tuxedo (Red Head / Tux Green Body / Red Tail)
Lines 1 and 2 throw similar looking progeny except Line 1 will throw about 10% solids.
Line 3 Just had their first batch, so I’m anxious to see what they will look like.
I raise these particular fish in a greenhouse in a 55 gallon breeder tank with some endlers and the water stays quite warm. 82 – 86 degrees this time of year. The pH is 7.6, source is unfiltered Florida well water which filters though a limerock aquifer, kH is quite high. The TDS measures 390. I raise plants with them, so the tank has Florida sandy soil as substrate and is heavily planted along with scuds, daphnia and cyclops cultured within same tank. This lessens aggression between males. I would not recommend placing all 3 of these in a bare tank or without females and lots of retreat area for the sub dominant males.
Year Round Source for Exotic Guppies, N, P and K Type Endlers, Swordtails, Scuds, Daphnia and More!
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Hey There Aquabid Enthusiasts, I offer 100% American Tropical Fish that have been bred and raised with the most delicate care at my Tropical Fish Farm in Brooksville, Florida. I know you would like healthy, hand selected fish and my goal is to provide you all of that along with quality and sometimes rarity at an affordable price. I can accept credit cards over the phone or from my website directly and of course accept paypal here on Aquabid, which I prefer and offer a live guarantee and replacement for doas. Replacements for doas require a picture of the dead fish in the bag they arrive in then a payment for re-shipping. I ship priority with hot or cold packs ($2.50 each if requested) but will also ship express if requested. Buyer pays shipping. I’ve been in the hobby for over 25 years and still enjoy fish and seek to learn more about our hobby. You can contact me with any questions, comments or special requests and offers if you do not wish to wait for an auction to complete.